Historic ruins, palatial villas and all the charm other regions could only wish for—these are the gems of Lake Como.

BY CONNOR STURGES AND SOPHIE KNIGHT

October 11, 2023 

Formed many millennia ago as a result of shifting glaciers, Lake Como—once dubbed “the greatest lake” by the Roman poet Virgil—is the deepest lake in Italy, and archeological evidence suggests that the first settlements here date back to prehistoric times. Prior to the region becoming a long-enduring hotspot for well-heeled tourists and celebrities alike (George Clooney famously owns a villa in Laglio after becoming fascinated by the area), the Romans claimed the region, leaving behind marble columns along Via Cesare Cantù and the Roman baths of Viale Lecco among other remnants, some of which have now been turned into atmospheric hotels.

And while Italian high society has been mingling over fine wine along the shore’s spectacular villas for centuries, the introduction of no-expenses-spared hotels in Lake Como—peppered around the undulating surrounds—has opened up the majesty of this part of the world to a more diverse crowd. The lavish resorts are an undoubted highlight, often used as launchpads for explorative day trips to some of the prettiest and most characterful towns in Lake Como.

Bellagio

A highlight of any trip to the shores of Lake Como is a day (or two, or three) in Bellagio. Set conveniently between the two southernmost branches of the lake, the town is made up of steep winding paths where pastel-hued houses provide peripheral pops of color. Wine bars spill onto the street, with sun-kissed holidaying Italians sitting and sipping in search of their new favorite vintage.

The sheer size of the lake is only truly appreciated when traveling by boat. Set off on a summer’s day from Como—the slow vessels can take up to three hours to reach Bellagio. It’s all worth it, however, as the beautiful town comes into focus; prepare your things and disembark for lakeside lunches and ice cream galore.

Varenna

Another town to add to any Lake Como itinerary is Varenna. The town is said to have been first established in the 8th century by a fisherman who took a liking to the location—but was subsequently destroyed by the rival commune of Como in 1126. It’s now a charming, traditional village.

As with any lake village visit, an amble through the narrow side streets is a must. Due to its small size, everything in Varenna is within easy reach on foot. The cobbled streets of the town’s center lead to the Church of San Giorgio, a 14th-century gem featuring Gothic and Romanesque characteristics. Having explored how devotion is done in the town, head back to the shore for a meal. Cavallino’s shaded terrace is a win in the day, and best followed up with gelato from La Passerella.

A visit to Villa Monastero is a must when passing through Varenna. Using the foundations of an ancient female monastery dedicated to the Virgin Mary, the villa has been transformed into the palatial property it is today over many centuries. The De Marchi family is responsible for the villa’s current style, having refurbished the property extensively, with a promise to preserve it.

Villa Monastero

Blooming wisteria lines the walls in glorious purple, with the light buzz of pollinating bees forever distinguishable in the distance. Villa Monastero is known for its flora and fauna just as much as its bricks and mortar, with a botanical garden bursting with more than 900 rare and exotic plants.

Villa Lario

A place for discerning travelers to rest their heads after days of swimming in the lake, Villa Lario is one of the region’s leading luxury all-suite properties. Located off the beaten track, the hotel comes into focus as your boat pulls into Pognana Lario, nestled into the mountainous terrain to the left. Suites are spread across four buildings on two acres of land; with Il Palazzo housing the penthouse and large reception areas.

Stays at Villa Lario are comprised of leisurely afternoons either on or beside the glistening lake. Take to the water or just dip a toe in with a perch on the pontoon—water sports and boat rentals are easily arranged. If you prefer to sit back and watch others splash around in the sun, grab a book and lounge in the manicured gardens, or prop up on the edge of the 66-foot infinity pool.

Lake Como’s east shore

The eastern coast of Lake Como is made up of sleepy towns populated by families native to the region, often for many centuries. These traditional towns are best explored via car, allowing you to delve in and out as you please.

With a perimeter of 106 miles, it’s little surprise that there are dozens of charming towns and villages to be seen once the tourist trail big-hitters have been explored. Cobbled alleyways lead up into the hills, with walking trails marked for eager ramblers. There are adventures to be enjoyed by all abilities, but the more intense outings are best reserved for the low season.

Lenno

One of the smaller towns along Lake Como’s western shore, Lenno is a delightful place to avoid the crowds that assemble in Bellagio and Como at the height of summer. Restaurant terraces merge with the surrounding greenery, where authentic Italian dishes are served up to wealthy owners of nearby holiday homes and day-trippers from the nearby cities.

Here, mirrors, artworks, and various trinkets line the streetside. Such road sales must always be explored, as there are treasures to be unearthed in each pile.

Azzano

Azzano may be a small, sleepy town, but the locale certainly packs a punch when it comes to heritage. Sacri Monti of Piedmont and Lombardy—a series of chapels dedicated to various aspects of the Christian faith—are just a short drive away.

Grand Hotel Tremezzo 

Perched primely on the shore of Lake Como, Grand Hotel Tremezzo enjoys icon status in the region thanks to its sumptuous suites, multiple swimming pools, and spectacular food and beverage offerings—five, to be exact. L’Escale provides drinks with a view and a taste of rural Italy, while fine dining restaurant La Terrazza has photoshoot-perfect aesthetics and authentic dishes that’ll please the most discerning Italophiles.

Sunbeds line the shore by Grand Hotel Tremezzo, where staycationers and international travelers join forces to soak up the summer rays. Soft sand is underfoot, with the inviting lake and its gentle lapping waters reaching out to guests after long lunches. If the depth of the lake feels daunting, however, there is always the floating swimming pool to pass the afternoon hours.

Menaggio

Archeological evidence suggests that the Menaggio area has been inhabited since prehistoric times. It has been a popular stomping ground ever since; a castle occupied the area during the middle ages, before dukes and duchesses and the rest of Italian society claimed the town as a summertime haunt.

A highlight of any trip to Menaggio is a leisurely roam around Villa Mylius Vigoni, a 19th-century residence surrounded by manicured gardens that offers some of the most spectacular views of Lake Como. Further out, historical hamlets litter the verdant landscape. A small hamlet established in the 18th century, Loveno became renowned for welcoming artists and high society to spend the summer in its villas.

Villa del Balbianello

For a sprinkling of cinematic history, incorporate a visit to Villa del Balbianello into an itinerary; Star Wars and A Month by the Lake have used the location, and James Bond even made a passing visit in Casino Royale. Cardinal Angelo Maria Durini purchased the property in 1785 after his attempts to buy Isola Comacina fell through. The setback paid off it seems, as the cardinal proceeded to renovate the property over many years before passing it on to his nephew.

Having passed through the hands of many owners over the centuries, Villa del Balbianello is now a popular attraction for Lake Como visitors getting under the skin of the area. The property is also known for hosting some of Italy’s most lavish weddings and parties—it was the choice for Bollywood’s famous power couple Ranveer Singh and Deepika Padukone’s own nuptials in November 2018.

Bellano

Just a few miles from the town of Varenna, Bellano is an often underappreciated gem on Lake Como’s western shore. Armies, dukes, and plague carriers have passed through the area over many centuries, giving the area a rich and colorful history—much of which no doubt made it into the official records. Of all the fascinating tales from Bellano, one in particular stands out. On a stormy August evening in 1688, Bartolomeo Mezzera stopped to pray and shelter in a chapel on the hill. Looking up at the image of the Virgin Mary, he discovered she was crying tears of blood. He ran to share the news with family and the priest, and within days the archbishop of Milan had been notified. What stands on this spot now, the Sanctuary of Lezzeno, is a magnificent church with glittering interiors that welcomes pilgrims and curious travelers throughout the year.

Lecco

Lecco is no stranger to the summertime crowds—thanks, in part, to it being awarded the title of Alpine town of the year back in 2013. Lecco is also one of the region’s more active towns. Recreation on the water is a big draw, with the warmer months drawing visitors to sail, swim, dive, and kite surf. As the nights get longer and the snow begins to fall on the mountaintops, skiers deciding to shun the expensive and French resorts arrive—typically to Piani di Bobbio, which offers nearly 22 miles of faultless slopes.

Nesso

Nesso’s history may date back to Roman civilization, and this fact is palpable in its winding stone streets and vine-covered buildings. It remains a small and charming town with an interesting past—the Church of Saints Pietro and Paolo was inaugurated in 1095 by Pope Urbano II—that’s manifested as an oasis of slow living and natural beauty. Amble along the Strada Regia, a footpath that connects Como to Bellagio, to take in some of the area’s beauty, or take to the water for a more leisurely outing.

Source : cntraveler

January 2024